The road to Ulaangom

The “road” is not so much a road here. Mongolia is a place where the “middle of no where is somewhere” to quote Natalie (whom we met on the train to UB) and this past week has proven that time and time again. The main highway, the northern route or A018 as it is known on the map, is usually no more than a series of two tracks on the vast Mongolian steppe. Sometimes it is a simple trail in the mountains, sometimes it picks its way through fields and forests, other times it is nothing more than the muddy (or if you are lucky dried mud) remains of where a few cars have driven recently. Yet somehow this is the equivalent of an interstate. All the locals know right where this thing is and occasionally you might even see some traffic most often traveling in a caravan for what I can only assume is added safety. The words “we are out there” were uttered by both Kyle and myself on far more than one occasion. It is interesting coming from the states to here. The states, which can feel truly wild and remote, don’t hold a candle to Mongolia. I challenge any off road enthusiast to simple come here and drive the “highways”, if you think you know what 4 wheel driving is I can now confidently say you have no idea until you see the everyday road conditions in most of western Mongolia and the main route is actually considered to be very good. This is one of the only places I have ever been that trucks and suv’s with snorkels ACTUALLY NEED them. When I say need I mean simply to get back and forth to town need, and those are just the nice vehicles! You should see the mish-mash of soviet jeeps and vans, ranch trucks, and always motorcycles all over the place. It is not unusual to see a truck incredibly overloaded with wool (I mean like 15feet high and falling over/out loaded) barreling down the road at you or behind you. Not to mention the way people rally their Prius’s out here. It’s pretty impressive and puts the way we take things like oh say ROADS for granted in the states in perspective.

These are exceptionally "good" roads and the main "highway"

Anyway the week started out rather uneventfully. After escaping the vortex of Hotgol and spending a day hanging out in Moron we were off. Like I mentioned last round this marked the end of the pavement, at least that we would see for a while. We were definitely not feeling amazingly fresh so the prospect of roughly 400 miles of rough dirt wasn’t sounding amazing, but hey ADVENTURE! After getting some gas for the stove it began. Bumbing our way out of town we suddenly heard some familiar American sounds. Introducing Dave and Frank.

Kyle, Dave, some guy, and Frank

the excursion in the background

These two guys have been living on and off in Asia and around the world for years working as consulting geologists for mineral companies and are about as American as you can get, right down to the diesel Ford excursion they were driving. They offered us a ride as far as Testerleg, about 200k down the way, and we gladly accepted. What followed was a great and hilarious day of shooting the shit, bumping down some awful roads, good humor, and most importantly some great food! We were treated to actual vegetables (a rarity here), smoked fish, grilled lamb, and some cocktails to boot. It was a great way to make up some time, rest a little more, meet a few great guys, and get some greatly appreciated help and advice (not to mention supplies, they loaded us up with canned oysters, oatmeal, and all kinds of stuff), and good company. The general generosity of this country seeps into everyone who lives here it seems!

Bronze and Iron age standing stones and graves

seen along the drive.

After that it was actually time to hit the road. Right off the bat it was an adventure. We helped a truck that was stuck in the river with the assistance of a French couple in the sweetest truck rig ever! They then made us some real coffee. It has been Nescafe since China and real coffee was a treat. Then the ride continued. Days of dirt, sand, and dust mixed with spectacular scenery and curious locals followed. At times the road was good enough to cover some serious ground, other times it was so sandy pushing was our only option. Our Aussie friends will be happy to know we are living up to the "push-bike" lable. But one very interesting highlight is we stumbled upon another Nadaam!

The awesome French rig that was complete with coffee!

Nadaam again!

After a hard and long day we rolled into Tes. A small town but the center of the local Sum (district) and lo and behold Nadaam! This one was much better and we were the only white people there. Of particular note were the horse competitions. Riding hard and picking things up off the ground, wrangling, and basically Mongolian rodeo were the name of the game. There was also actual archery and we met this guy:

A new friend and some archery

Who spoke a little English and showed us around with his friends. This included getting into his car speeding off like a bat out of hell to an unknown location. At first it seemed this might end badly but he just wanted to show us a special local tree. Adventure. Then after all the festivities, and more Hoshuur, off again towards Ulaangom.

Some more Nadaam characters

A few more small towns, a kid who spoke great English and gave us a Mongolian lesson, and an interesting but harmless interaction with the local police later and we were 130K away and 115 from pavement. This turned out to be the hardest day yet! Miles of washboard, sand, and heat in excess of 95F with no shade, very little breeze, and no water. I was carrying 8 liters and drank every drop. If you want to know what it was like go ride a 60+ pound bike on the beach for 4 hours and do another 5 on the most wash-boarded road you can find. But we made it! 130K, terrible roads, and 9 hours. In the process we passed the largest lake in Mongolia, Uvs Nuur, a huge salt lake that resembles an inland sea. And guess what! In Ulaangom it was Nadaam all over again, we just can’t escape it. This time it means the town (which is essentially a large city by Mongolian standards) is packed and crazy.

Sand, sand, wash board, and more sand

So here we are. Taking a few rest days and trying to figure out our next move. There are more opinions about the road conditions moving west than there are people and all we want is to get back into the mountains and out of the desert. Hopefully with the help of a few conflicting reports from motorcycle tourists and locals we can find the least painful way to go but either way we will forge a path. To the mountains then eventually in the next two weeks to China. The adventure continues!

Dirt, or a tan? Mostly dirt

The "highway"

A few of the locals. There are supposedly 16 head of

live stock for every person in Mongolia.

From the road, Buddhist and Shamanistic monuments are a 

common sight I hope they bring us good fortune.

Before a Mongolian hair cut.

After, angry face included (it's hot out). I once again

proved my theory that cultures that don't grow facial hair won't

trim your beard for you. Done with scissors.

On another more somber note I learned this week that a friend and mentor of sorts of mine passed away suddenly. James Wilson, whom I knew as friend and board member of the organization I used to work for, has left for the next adventure. He was a great man and one of the fittest nearly 70 year old guys I have ever met. His passing and hours of riding has given me reason and a chance to reflect. Life is short and nothing is certain. You can be here one day and gone the next. I have a bad habit of getting caught up in the small stuff, giving into stress too often, and putting off the fun for an over developed sense of obligation. James, although very hard working and an avid conservationist, loved a  good hike, a good adventure, and a good time. He, and his memory, will remind those who knew him to get out and get after it, to work hard but also have a good time. Take a minute to soak in the beauty of the world and revel in the moment of whatever you are doing. Just like pushing my bike through deep sand under the desert sun, sometimes life sucks, but when you step back it is all just part of the big picture that is life in general. Enjoy every moment, make it your own, live it to the fullest, and go down fighting and laughing. James, this one is for you man. You were a huge influence on everyone you knew me included and I will try to live more fully thanks to you and your example. Until the next time man, journey well.

Be well everyone!